What Does Surfing Feel Like?

One of my best rides during Hurricane Igor, 2010

To me surfing is more than just being on the wave. I enjoy every single aspect of the sport – from pre-session stretches, to watching the surf to locate a good paddle out spot, to timing the sets on the paddle out, to the thrill of being in the lineup and watching the rollers come in when it’s going off, to a well executed duck dive when a massive lip is about to snap you in half…and then there is the actually feeling I get when riding the wave which can not really be compared to anything else.The actual act of surfing a wave is most exhilarating when I am racing down the line on a wall or getting covered up. I’ve never been one to try and pull airs or shred the waves to pieces; I prefer to just flow with the wave, get some speed, and do some nice smooth turns up and down the face with the occasional cutback. Truly, the rush comes from being one with the ocean’s energy…some may think that I’m sounding like a surf bum…but every wave rider knows what I’m talking about!